Caring for your headgear starts after sparren: wipe away sweat, carefully clean the inner lining and outside, and let everything dry completely. You don't need a washing machine, a bucket of water or a heavy dose of spray. A soft cloth and a regular routine do most of the work.
Treat the inside and outside separately. Use no Sukkiri, FreshKO or similar spray on the outside, even if it's faux leather or synthetic microfiber. If needed, you can apply a thin layer of suitable leather cream to a smooth leather exterior. Don't apply any cream to the lining, chin strap, laces or hook-and-loop fasteners.
1. Clean it after every training session, don't wait until it stinks
You don't have to wait until your headgear smells unpleasant. The quick steps you take after every training session make the difference: pat away the sweat, wipe the surfaces that touch your skin and let the lining air out. What you remove now won't be pressed against your face again next time you train.
Caring for headgear is about more than keeping the outside looking tidy. You also want a clean inner lining, fastenings that stay secure and a fit that isn't affected by trapped moisture or greasy residue. So don't just look at the logo on the forehead panel; check the whole piece.
Make unpacking your bag a habit when you get home. Headgear left among damp clothes overnight won't suddenly be dry when you unzip the bag. Take it out and give the inside room to dry.
2. The spots that are easy to miss
The inside around your forehead, cheeks and chin has a lot of contact with your skin. Wipe these areas carefully. Also gently wipe along the edges near the ears and the fastening at the back of the head: sweat, hair and other residue can easily collect there.
Open the chin strap and rear fastenings so you can reach them. Don't force the headgear apart or push a wet cloth deep into seams or openings. Clean the surfaces you can reach; the aim is not to soak the padding from the inside.
Use a clean part of the cloth for the lining. Don't use a cloth on the surfaces that touch your face if you've already used it to clean a dirty floor or the outside of your gym bag. Use a separate, dry cloth to pat it dry.
3. Clean your headgear in six steps
Have a soft, clean cloth, some lukewarm water and a dry cloth ready. Wring out the damp cloth well. It should be slightly damp, not dripping. Work carefully over the different parts, and don't keep adding more water if a spot is still dirty.
- Open the closures. Undo the chin strap and rear closures so you can reach the inside. Keep the basic fit adjustments in place as much as possible and don't force the headgear out of shape.
- Blot away excess sweat. First, use a clean, dry cloth along the forehead, cheek pads and chin. Press gently without squeezing the padding.
- Wipe down the outside. Clean leather, PU or synthetic microfiber with the soft, slightly damp cloth. Don't use Sukkiri, FreshKO, bleach or harsh household cleaners on the outer material.
- Clean the inner lining. Wipe down the contact areas you can reach separately. Switch to a clean part of the cloth and work carefully around the chin, cheeks and ears. Don't soak the lining.
- Check the closures and seams. Remove hair and lint from the hook-and-loop fasteners and check that the laces, stitching and attachments are intact. Don't apply cream to these parts.
- Pat dry and let it dry completely. Remove any remaining moisture with the dry cloth and place the headgear in a dry, airy spot with the closures open. Don't use it again until the lining is dry too.
Don't use a washing machine or dryer. Don't rinse the headgear under the tap or submerge it in water either. More water won't make this routine more thorough; you want to clean the surface without getting the entire headgear wet.
4. The inside and outside need different care
Clean the outside with a soft, slightly damp cloth. That's our starting point for both leather and synthetic models. Sukkiri and FreshKO are not cleaners for the outside. So don't spray the entire headgear to get it done in one go.
Start by wiping the inside clean and letting it dry. If you also want to use a suitable care spray for the inner lining, apply it lightly and only where needed. Don't spray it on your face, the outside or the closures, and don't soak the lining with it. Let the inside dry completely before putting the headgear back on.
You don't need to add extra spray after every training session as a matter of course. The basics remain removing sweat and dirt, then letting it dry thoroughly. A fresh scent from a can does nothing for a lining that's still damp or a closure full of lint.
5. Apply a thin layer of leather care product to leather headgear
For headgear made of smooth leather, leather care is for the exterior. The Rival HG30 and XPRT XHG10 are examples with leather exteriors. Clean the leather first and let it dry. Then, if needed, you can apply a thin layer of a suitable leather cream, such as Rapide Original.
Test a small amount on an inconspicuous area. Use a soft cloth to spread a thin layer over the smooth leather, let it soak in and wipe away any excess. Keep the cream away from the lining, chin strap, laces, hook-and-loop fasteners and openings. The parts that touch your face should also stay clean and free of grease.
Our Fight2Win guideline for regular training: check the leather about once a month and apply a thin layer if it feels dry or stiff. If it is still supple and well cared for, skip the extra layer. Do not train with a greasy exterior that rubs off.
A suitable leather cream is not the same as just any oil, petroleum jelly or a thick layer of heavy grease. Choose the care product based on the model’s material.
6. PU and synthetic microfiber do not need greasing
Not all headgear that looks like leather is made of leather. The Rival RHG100 Professional, for example, has a synthetic microfiber-PU exterior. Do not use leather cream on it: wiping it clean with a soft, slightly damp cloth and then letting it dry is the right approach.
The brand alone does not tell you what care is needed. The leather Rival HG30 and synthetic Rival RHG100 sit side by side in the range, but they do not need the same cream treatment. The same distinction applies to the exterior and lining of a single piece of headgear.
Pay particular attention to the material described, not just the appearance or price. If a model has a leather exterior and a microfiber lining, like the XPRT XHG10, apply the cream only to the smooth leather on the outside. Do not grease the microfiber lining.
7. Drying without a hair dryer, sun or heating
Let your headgear dry at room temperature in a clean place with enough airflow. Keep the fastenings open and its natural shape intact. Do not place it with its damp lining pressed against a wet towel or stuff clothing into the opening.
Do not use a hair dryer, radiator, tumble dryer or direct sunlight to speed up the process. Do not leave the headgear behind a windshield or on a hot windowsill either. A dry place indoors is not the same as the warmest place you can find.
Before your next training session, also feel the lining around the chin, cheeks and back of the head. It's not enough for just the exterior to feel dry. If those contact surfaces are still damp, let them dry longer. Air out your headgear right after training rather than just before you need to leave again.
8. Keeping Velcro, laces and the chin strap in good condition
Hair and lint can get caught in the hooks of the Velcro. Remove them carefully with your fingers or a soft brush. Keep the material flat and don't pull hard on loose threads. There's no need for a harsh metal brush.
Wipe the chin strap and accessible parts of the fasteners with a slightly damp cloth and let them dry. Then check that the Velcro still grips and that the fastener isn't coming loose. If the fit is adjusted with laces, also check for fraying, damaged ends and loose seams around the lace loops.
Fasten clean, dry Velcro before storing it to protect other fabrics. Distinguish between dirt and wear: you can remove lint, but extra cream, spray or pulling it tighter won't make a worn fastener reliable.
9. Dealing with odors and keeping shared headgear clean
If there's an unpleasant smell, don't start by covering it with a stronger scent. Take the headgear out of your bag, clean the contact surfaces carefully and let everything dry completely. Check that you haven't missed the chin strap, cheek pads or edges at the back of the head.
Store your headgear separately from damp clothing and used handwraps. A care spray for the inner lining is, at most, a supplement to this routine. Using more and more product cannot make up for storing the material while it's damp after every training session.
If you use shared headgear, clean the contact surfaces between users and let it dry thoroughly before someone else wears it. A quick wipe of the front with a towel is not a complete cleaning. Don't pass wet or visibly dirty headgear straight on to the next athlete.
Having your own headgear makes it easier to keep track of its fit and care, but you still need to clean it. If the lining still smells strongly despite careful cleaning and drying, assess the condition of the material rather than repeatedly masking the problem with spray.
10. Check before every training session: when should you stop using it?
Before sparren, check the fasteners, seams, exterior and padding. Feel whether the shape is still even and check that no padding is exposed. A good-looking exterior doesn't tell the whole story: you want to be sure the chin strap, back-of-head fastener and surrounding seams are secure.
Stop using it if the padding is exposed, structural seams are torn, the padding remains severely compressed or misshapen, or a fastening no longer stays secure. Extra leather cream, spray or a tighter knot in the laces will not fix these problems. Obviously damaged headgear should not be used for even one more sparring round.
Does the headgear slip? Clean the inner lining and check the size and adjustment before continuing to train. It must not obstruct your vision. If it still slips when adjusted correctly or the fastening no longer holds, do not use it for sparren and choose a suitable replacement.
We do not tie replacement to a fixed number of months. Check it before every training session and assess its actual condition and fit. Heavy use makes these checks especially important, but you should also carefully inspect an older model that has seen little use.
11. Transport cleanly and store in a well-ventilated place
You can carry the headgear in your gym bag on the way home. Take it out as soon as you get home. The bag is for transport, not for drying a still-damp lining. Keep used clothing and wet handwraps separate as much as possible.
Store it only when it is clean and completely dry, without flattening it under other items. A dry shelf or an airy spot where the headgear keeps its shape is fine. Do not leave it for long periods in a hot car, damp basement or closed bag.
If you pick it up again after a break from training, check the fastenings, seams and fit again before sparren. You do not need to apply extra leather cream automatically just because it has not been used for a while. Treat smooth leather only when it actually needs it.
12. Conclusion: clean, dry and ready for your next training session
Caring for headgear does not have to be complicated. Remove sweat and dirt after every training session, clean the inside and outside with a soft cloth, and let the lining dry completely. Keep the laces and hook-and-loop fasteners clean, and check before sparren that everything is still securely fastened.
Apply a thin layer of leather cream only to suitable smooth leather on the outside. Do not use leather grease on PU, synthetic microfiber, the inner lining or fastenings, and do not use Sukkiri or FreshKO on the outer material. Do not use a washing machine, tumble dryer or soaking as a quick fix.
The final step is always the same: check not just whether the headgear smells fresh, but whether the lining is dry, the fit is right, and the material and fastenings are intact. If there is obvious damage or the headgear does not stay in place, do not use it for sparren.
